They're small and unassuming, but dimes have been an important part of the U.S. money system since 1796. The Mercury-head and Roosevelt dimes are extremely popular with new collectors, while the older (pre-1916) series offer plenty of challenges for the advanced collector. Here are some tips for collecting U.S. dimes.
a Difficulty rating: Moderately difficult. A type set of dimes offers a wide range of interesting designs, each with its own story to tell. The Draped Bust type is scarce, but all the later types are readily available.
a Cost estimate: For a type set of dimes in Fine condition, expect to pay about ,000 (add ,000 more if you want the Draped Bust/plain eagle subtype). In Uncirculated condition, bring more money a" at least ,000.
a Difficulty rating: Difficult to nearly impossible. The Draped Bust in every date is accessible but somewhat expensive. The Capped Bust has no difficult dates. The Seated Liberty has many common dates(dates in a series that have high mintages and that are easy to obtain), many rare dates, and the unique 1873-CC no arrows dime. The Barber type has the scarce 1895-O, and the 1894-S is a classic rarity that always sets records when it appears on the market. The Mercury head has the key date of 1916-D, but all other dates are easy to find. The Roosevelt head in all dates and mintmarks is common.
a Cost estimate: Inexpensive to millions. For Draped Bust dimes, figure on spending ,000 for a date set in Fine condition and at least 0,000 for a date set in Uncirculated condition a" if you can find them. Capped Bust dimes cost ,000 for a set in Fine condition and roughly ,000 for an Uncirculated set. Seated Liberty dimes costs about ,000 for a Fine set, but only if you exclude the 1873-CC no arrows. For Barber dimes the 1894-S takes all the fun out of putting together a date and mintmark set. If you exclude the 1894-S, a Fine set runs around ,500; in Uncirculated condition, the price jumps to over ,000. For Mercury-head dimes, Fine sets cost around ,200; Uncirculated sets cost at least ,000 a" and substantially more if you add any full-band examples. You can pick up a complete date and mintmark set of Uncirculated and proof examples of Roosevelt dimes for around 0. Buy yourself a nice set and stay away from the lower grades.
By die variety:
a Difficulty rating: Easy to nearly impossible. Each type has its highlights. In the Draped Bust series, you can find several variations on the number of stars and berries on some dates. The Capped Bust series features two overdates. Because of its extended run, the Seated Liberty type has lots of interesting varieties, many of which are quite rare. Look for the 1893/2 overdate in the Barber series. Favorites in the Mercury-head series include the 1942/1 and 1942/1-D overdates. In the Roosevelt dime series, the 1982 no mintmark dime is a perennial favorite.
a Cost estimate: All over the board. A 1945-S micro-S dime is just in Uncirculated condition, whereas a 1905-O micro-O can run as much as ,500. Collecting Draped Bust dimes gets expensive because most of the dates are already valuable as type coins.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much is a 1893-S silver Morgan dollar worth?
This is the most valuable coin in the entire Morgan dollar series, so the condition is even more important regarding value than others. The differences in value between grades are larger. Not only larger, but immense.
The values quoted are for coins professionally graded by the leading company in this business, PCGS. I will explain why in a bit.
A coin in the very lowest grades approaches 00, and a Good- 4 is ,500. In mint state uncirculated grades, which are extremely rare, the values soar to 0,000+ at the low end of the 11-step scale, and an MS65 (in the middle) is worth more than half a million dollars. Common date Morgans in MS65 can be bought for less than 0.
The reason I quoted PCGS values is that, because this coin is so rare, counterfeits, and legitimate replica coins that scam artists are trying to pass off as the real thing, are all over the place. I would not buy this coin if it wasn't graded by PCGS or NGC. NGC values are similar but trend toward slightly lower.
How much is my silver dollar coin worth, coint collectors?
From what I've read it's a morgan silver dollar. The year is 1893 and there is a small S printed on one side. We found it in my great grandmothers belongings. Here is a link to what it looks like.
The 1893-S US Morgan dollar is one of the keys to the series. It is worth about 00 to ,000 retail in circulated grades and much more if uncirculated; please see the second link for more detailed information. There were only 100,000 minted. The third link shows how to grade Morgan dollars. I would recommend taking it to a local coin expert or two for an evaluation who might be found with the fourth link. You might even consider getting the coin slabbed and certified by a grading service like NGC, PCGS, or ANACS. I hope this helps.
how much is this coin worth?
ok so i have a couple coins and i'd like to know either how much they are worth or what website would be able to tell me...or if they are even worth anything lol. i have the following:
1893 Indian Head Penny
1964 Silver Quarter
1966 Silver Half Dollar
1889 Silver Dollar (has ceasar looking head on front and bird holding arrows on back)
thats it. so i wouldn't be surprised if the silver coins aren't worth anything more than face value. but i do believe the silver dollar and the indian head penny might be worth more than and $.01 respectively. thanks!
Well, they're all worth more than face value. The condition will determine how much.
For the Indian Head cent, if it's worn to the point that the portrait is basically an outline with a few details left, you'd probably get a dollar or so if you sold it to a coin dealer. If it's worn about like the average coin you see in change (most of the details are still there, but there's obvious wear over the entire coin), the value if you sold it might go up to . If it has just a little wear on the high points in the design, maybe . They made over 46 million cents that year, so it's a pretty common con.
The 1964 quarter is 90%, so with the silver value, it's worth at least . Unfortunately, it's common enough that it has to have no wear at all (what collectors call "uncirculated") and be a much nicer than average uncirculated example for it to be worth more than that.
The 1966 half is 40% silver, and it's in the same boat as the quarter, but it only has about .50 worth of silver.
Your silver dollar is commonly called a "Morgan" dollar--named after George Morgan, who designed it. It was minted at four mints in 1889: Philadelphia, San Francisco, New Orleans, and Carson City, NV. The mint where it was made has a huge impact on the value, so you'll need to figure that out.
On the reverse of the coin, at the bottom between the wreath and where it says "One Dollar", you may find a mintmark. If there is a letter "S", it was made in San Francisco, an "O" means New Orleans, a "CC" means Carson City, and no letter means Philadelphia.
The silver value of the coin is about right now.
Using the same grading scale as for the Indian Head, the approximate prices you might get are:
Philadelphia: , , (it's a pretty common coin)
San Francisco: , ,
New Orleans: , ,
Carson City: 0, 0, 00
They only minted about 350,000 dollars in Carson City that year, which explains the price.
The values I gave you are just "ballpark" estimates. A dealer might legitimately offer you more or less, depending on circumstances.
And whatever you do, don't try to clean them or "improve" their appearance in any way. Cleaning damages the coin, and kills any collector value it might have.
How much is a coin lot Worth.?
It has 150+ coins
some of the high lights are
*1921 P Morgan Dollar(MINT)(MS-63)
*1912 S Wheat Penny (FINE)
*1922 S Liberty Silver Dollar (EF)
*1953 S Franklin Half Dollar (EF)
*1749 Forin Coin(EF)(it says(1OR 5 Two arrows crossing each other back has a sheild thing
*1893 half dollar columbis thing (AU)
*South African coin 1950 1/4D (penny like)(pearson on it is Georgivs Sextvs Rex.
*1969 Us proof set(quarter looks gold(plated or solid?)
it would be nice to give me an estimite for if i sell it on ebay?
I'm sorry but not enough information to even chance an estimate of a value on the lot. You would have to supply enough information on each coin to allow someone to value that coin. I suggest that you take it to a coin shop and have someone look at it.
Silver dollars from 1878 - 1904?
My mother has a collection of silver dollars, dated from 1878-1904. The only years missing are 1893 and 1895. She also has a1921. There are no mint marks on them. The style of the eagle is seven-feathered. They are all shiny and encased. Some scratches. About how much would they be worth, ballpark?
I was wrong about the mint markings. There is and "o". I'm not sure what that stand for?
I only have one for each year.
The 1893 is the rarest coin and the 1895 was a proof only issue. It takes 96 dollars to make a set. Now do you have a complete set except for the 2 dates you mentioned, or do you have one coin of each year, that is a date set?? If a complete set the lowest value for a grade of good/very good set if ,500.00. I doubt all your coins grade that low, so it would be worth more. If a year set it would depend on grade and what the mint marks of the coins are. I could not even guess here. Your best bet is see a couple of coin dealers. Get two opinions. The above price is about what a coin dealer would pay.